On 13 September 2017, a group of 38 Kecharians from all over the world – Malaysia, Canada and Hong Kong – gathered at Beijing Airport, prepared to embark on a spiritual journey to the world famous Buddhist mountain Wu Tai Shan. It is a place close to our hearts because it is the earthly abode of Lord Manjushri, the Buddha of Wisdom and his emanation, the Dharma Protector Dorje Shugden.

The holy Wu Tai Shan mountain is the earthly abode of Lord Manjushri, the Buddha of Wisdom

During our monthly Dorje Shugden kangso (fulfilment ritual) held in Kechara Forest Retreat, we invite Dorje Shugden from the five places where he abides to bless us. Wu Tai Shan is one of these places. Thus, we are extremely fortunate to be able to visit the abodes of Lord Manjushri and Dorje Shugden on earth with the blessings of our guru, His Eminence the 25^th Tsem Rinpoche.

Lord Manjushri, the Buddha of Wisdom. Click to enlarge.

This pilgrimage was a historical moment for Kechara as it was our first ever group pilgrimage to Wu Tai Shan in Shanxi, China. The Chinese Emperor Kangxi has previously visited Wu Tai Shan on five occasions and there are many tales about this renowned Emperor at the holy mountain. Below are just a few that we heard from the locals:

One day, the Kangxi Emperor travelled to Wu Tai Shan to visit Xian Tong Temple. Upon hearing the news, the Abbot of Xian Tong Temple quickly summoned all the monks to gather by the road leading to the temple to prepare to receive the emperor. They were all dressed in their robes, some held incense and some ritual instruments, and with melodic chanting they welcomed the emperor into the temple.

When the emperor arrived at the temple, the abbot showed him around. At the time, the monks were engaged in an ordination ceremony in the main prayer hall during which they burnt nine dots onto the newly ordained monks’ heads to symbolize that they were now ordained.

Out of curiosity, Emperor Kangxi wanted to witness this ceremony. The abbot was immediately put in a very awkward situation. He was worried that the emperor would be negatively affected after witnessing the process of burning the heads of the monks, as some would show signs of unbearable pain on their faces. While thinking of what to do, the abbot noticed that the Emperor’s face was radiant, as if he was in love. The abbot then told Emperor Kangxi that it was not suitable for him to witness the ceremony. Puzzled, the emperor asked why. Full of confidence, the abbot said,

“Your Highness, your face is radiant, you must have someone you like now. If you come to witness the ceremony, your good luck in the relationship might be affected.”

Dorje Shugden, the emanation of Manjushri. Click to enlarge or click here for more pictures.

True enough, the Kangxi Emperor was fond of a girl he had met in Wu Tai Shan. However, he did not yet know her name. As a result, the abbot’s words made him very happy and he considered it an auspicious omen.

Emperor Kangxi immediately removed his dragon robe and offered it to the temple. He also instructed the abbot to wear the dragon robe on the 1^st and 15^th day of the first lunar month every year and offer incense to the Buddha on his behalf. Unfortunately, the dragon robe was stolen in 1948.

Portrait of Emperor Kangxi. Click to enlarge.

It is also said that Emperor Kangxi’s father, Emperor Shunzhi, was very sad after his favourite concubine passed away and he eventually decided to be ordained as a monk and live in Wu Tai Shan. Legend tells of how Emperor Kangxi, after being instructed by his mother, went to Wu Tai Shan to look for his father. One morning, Emperor Kangxi arrived at Zhen Hai Temple where he met a kind and gentle monk. He spoke with the monk hoping to get information about the whereabouts of his father. However, the monk was not able to tell him anything.

It was only after the emperor left the temple that he realised the monk was in fact his father. He immediately returned to the temple but was unable to find his father anywhere. He did however find a poem left in Zhen Hai Temple by his father, instructing him to return a ceramic bowl to Hua Shan Temple, where Emperor Shunzi had once broken the bowl of an old monk. Therefore, Emperor Kangxi ordered for ceramic bowls to be made in Jing De Zhen, a town famous for their ceramics, and gifted one to each of the monasteries located in Wu Tai Shan.

Day 1: September 12, 2017

We are leaving for Beijing to begin our holy pilgrimage tour! 32 of us are taking an evening flight to Beijing. We stayed in Beijing for a night before continuing to Wu Tai Shan, a 6.5-hour bus ride.

Day 2: September 13, 2017

We set our alarms to wake up early as no one wanted to be left behind! We are now 6.5 hours away from Wu Tai Shan. Was it a long bus journey? Yes. Was it tiring? Not really, because it was a trip to collect merits, so how could that be tiring? Rinpoche had told us that over 10 years ago, it had taken a group of pilgrims 13 hours to travel to Wu Tai Shan from Beijing. Our trip was only 6.5 hours, so we should consider ourselves lucky.

Wu Tai Shan is now a ‘tourist zone’, meaning that to enter Wu Tai Shan, one has to pay an entrance fees of RMB145. There are over 120 temples for us to visit in Wu Tai Shan. However, over the next couple of days, we are only planning to visit the few that are relevant to our practice.

Upon arriving in Wu Tai Shan, we visited the very first temple of the trip, Dai Luo Ding (黛螺顶). Dai Luo Ding has a very interesting history. Emperor Qian Long (son of Emperor Kangxi) had made several attempts to visit the five peaks of Wu Tai Shan to pay homage to all five forms of Manjushri. But due to harsh weather conditions, he could not make it.

Out of frustration, Emperor Qian Long instructed one of the resident monks, Venerable Qing Yun, to think of a way to fulfil his wish of praying to all five forms of Manjushri regardless of the weather conditions, and he was given five years to come up with a solution. Venerable Qing Yun agreed and on the fifth year, decided to install statues of all five forms of Manjushri in just one chapel in Dai Luo Ding. The chapel was named “Manjushri Chapel”.

Emperor Qian Long was very pleased with this solution and personally gifted samples of his calligraphy to Dai Luo Ding. Since then, it is said that visiting Dai Luo Ding is as good as visiting all five peaks of the holy mountain to pay homage to the five different forms of Manjushri.

There are two ways to travel to Dai Luo Ding. The first is by trekking up the mountainside, but most visitors opt for the second, which is travelling by cable car.

Happy pilgrims at the entrance of the temple

A beautiful Buddha Shakyamuni statue made of sandalwood is enshrined in this hall. The walls around the statue are covered with paintings depicting the life story of Buddha Shakyamuni.

The main chapel in Dai Luo Ding is the Manjushri Chapel, which houses the five forms of Manjushri

From left to right: Manjushri from the Northern Peak, Manjushri Tiskna from the Central Peak, Manjushri from the Southern Peak

Avalokiteshvara depicted in male form can be seen here with very rich paintings on the side.

38 Kecharians in front of the hall of Buddha Shakyamuni.

Day 3: 14 September, 2017

Since the weather at Wu Tai Shan can be quite unpredictable, we visited the peaks first before continuing to the other temples. On this day, we visited the Eastern Peak, Northern Peak, Central Peak and Manjushri’s bathing place, as well as the location of Manjushri’s hand and foot prints.

The roads leading to the peaks are narrow and not in very good condition, therefore all pilgrims must use the appointed van service to visit the five peaks. We started the day early at 8am so we could spend more time at each site.

Eastern Peak

Our first stop for the day was the Eastern Peak, also known as Wang Hai Peak（望海峰）located 2,795 metres above sea level. Manjushri Tiskna (聪明文殊) or Four-armed Manjushri is believed to reside here in Wang Hai Temple (望海寺).

Stairs up to Wang Hai Temple

The interior of Wang Hai Temple

The Manjushri Tiskna shrine is right in front of the chapel

Close up of the statue

This single-story 1400-year-old chapel is located just behind the Wang Hai Temple.

Pilgrims making butterlamp offerings to the ancient statue

We recited the Ganglongma prayer and Manjushri’s mantra at every site we visited.

It is said that this stupa houses a hat worn by Manjushri

Northern Peak

Located 3,061 metres above sea level, the Northern Peak is the highest among all five peaks. Here, Ling Ying Temple (灵应寺) houses the Vimala Manjushri (无垢文殊) statue in their main chapel together with four other forms of Manjushri. To the left and right of the Manjushri Chapel are the East and West Buddha Chapels.

A few kilometres away from the Manjushri Chapel is a chapel dedicated to the nagas. It is said that Lord Manjushri once took the Cooling Stone from the naga palace and placed it at Wu Tai Shan. In the process, he offended the nagas as they felt the stone belonged to them. Becoming angry, they created havoc on the holy mountain. Lord Manjushri subdued them and installed them in this chapel, where people can make offerings to appease them.

The group gathered for prayers before entering the Manjushri Chapel

Dedicated devotees making prostrations before entering the chapel

Devotees from all schools of Buddhism offering prayers to Manjushri

Our pilgrims took the opportunity to collect holy stones and dirt for statue insertion or to keep on their altars. It’s believed that these items are energised by the positive energy of the Buddhas.

All five forms of Manjushri reside in this chapel

A special chapel dedicated to the nagas

A nice group photo

Central Peak

Yanjiao Temple（演教寺）is located on a plateau which is 2,894 metres above sea level. Even though it is a Chinese Mahayana temple, they also practice Tantra, more specifically tantric traditions from the Gelug lineage.

One of the defining features of the Central Peak is the large outdoor Manjushri Buddha statue, standing high on the mountain. It is here that a chapel dedicated to Lama Tsongkhapa and his two heart sons is located, as well as a special protector chapel housing large two-dimensional images of Dharma Protectors such as Mahakala, Kalarupa and Namtose.

The temple is being expanded to house more holy statues. There are 500 arhat statues on the ground waiting to be moved into a new dedicated chapel.

The Hall of Buddha Shakyamuni

Holy statues inside the hall

The chapel dedicated to Lama Tsongkhapa and his two heart sons

The Protector Chapel which is under renovation

A two-dimensional colourful Vajrapani relief carving on the wall

A beautiful image of Yamantaka

The outdoor Manjushri is surrounded by pillars on which are carved the Eight Auspicious Signs

The holy outdoor statue of Lord Manjushri blessing the land

The fortunate group with the huge Manjushri statue

Manjushri’s Bathing Site

This site is located in between the Northern Peak and the Eastern Peak. It is said that Manjushri used to bathe here. This is also the site of the hand and foot prints left by Manjushri, which pilgrims can touch for blessings.

The entrance to the chapel

It is believed that Lord Manjushri bathed in this particular spot while he was travelling to give teachings. Many prayers flags are offered at this site.

Pilgrims circumambulating the well

Close up of the well

Devotees receiving blessings from Manjushri’s foot prints left on the stone platform

Day 4: September 15, 2017

The weather was not good at all this morning. There were thick clouds overhead and it was drizzling. We were worried that the rain might get heavier so we decided to do a short prayer and serkym offering to Dorje Shugden and request his help so that we could continue paying homage to Manjushri in the various temples as planned. The rain eased off after the prayer and we were able to depart as scheduled.

Western Peak

The Western Peak is where Fa Lei Temple（法雷寺）is located, on a plateau 2,773 metres above sea level. Manjushri Vadisimha (狮子吼文殊) also known as Manjushri Seated on a Lion resides in this temple. The area here is smaller compared to the other peaks of the mountain.

Fa Lei Temple is the smallest of all five main temples on the peaks of the mountain

An abandoned building

Manjushri Vadisimha is housed in this chapel

One of our senior Kecharians, Mrs Chuah, making butterlamp offerings to Manjushri

Southern Peak

After visiting the Western Peak, we continued our journey to the Southern Peak. Pu Ji Temple (普济寺) is located here and this is where Jvanasattba Manjushri（聪明文殊）resides.

The entrance to Pu Ji Temple on the Southern Peak

A newly installed colourful statue of Manjushri in the form of a child is placed in front of the Jvanasattva Manjushri statue

We were told by the resident monk that this statue of Manjushri Seated on a Lion is 1,500 years old

Our kind Kecharian pilgrims liberated birds here while reciting prayers and mantras to plant virtuous imprints in their mindstreams

Ji Xiang Temple

This is considered the largest and most comprehensive Gelug temple located on Wu Tai Shan. Ji Xiang Temple (吉祥寺), also known as Cooling Bridge (清凉桥) is located on the road to the Central and Western Peaks. The temple is 2,440 metres above sea level.

This temple has a very interesting story. According to legend, during one of Emperor Kangxi’s visits to Wu Tai Shan in search of his father Emperor Shunzhi, he lost his way on the mountain amidst heavy fog. While the emperor was trying to find his way off the mountain, an old man holding a lantern and accompanied by a tiger appeared. He guided Kangxi to a nearby temple which is now called Ji Xiang Temple.

Just as Emperor Kangxi arrived at the entrance to the temple, the old man and his tiger disappeared. Out of curiosity, the emperor explored the temple and to his surprise, he saw a statue which looked exactly like the old man who had guided him there. The emperor finally realised that it was Lord Manjushri who had emanated as an old man to save him. He immediately named the statue “Lantern Manjushri” (提笼文殊) in commemoration of the miraculous help that he had received. The original Lantern Manjushri statue was destroyed in 1966 but has since been rebuilt in recent years.

The entrance to the temple

A five-storey high Maitreya Buddha statue is located here in this temple

The main prayer hall

The Lantern Manjushri statue

A hand-painted Lantern Manjushri thangka on the wall

The hall dedicated to Lantern Manjushri, located next to the main prayer hall

Inside the main prayer hall

Manjushri Cave

Manjushri Cave or rather Manjushri Temple is located at the foot of the Eastern Peak. Legend says that Lord Manjushri engaged in practice in one of the caves here. Since then, this place has become very well-known for miracles. Another story states that an arhat came to this place to meditate with his tiger and was found years later after his passing in meditation posture. Due to the great blessings from Manjushri and the arhat, many pilgrims come here to do their practice. This temple provides short-term accommodation to both pilgrims and practitioners.

An overview of the site

The entrance to Manjushri Cave

Yet another chapel dedicated to Lord Tsongkhapa and his two heart disciples

The Dharma Protectors in one of the chapels at the site

A beautiful statue of Dukkar

The entrance leading to the actual Manjushri Cave

Inside the cave

Guan Yin Cave (Chenrezig Cave)

This site was built during the Ming Dynasty and was where His Holiness the 6^th Dalai Lama engaged in his meditations when he came to Wu Tai Shan. It is also believed that Avalokiteshvara (Chenrezig) appeared at this place, hence the name.

A very small cave with an Avalokiteshvara statue in it

Avalokiteshvara in the cave

Holy water, believed to blessed by Avalokiteshvara, is distributed to the pilgrims by a resident monk

A holy image of Lama Tsongkhapa

Day 5: September 16, 2017

After visiting all five peaks, we visited other temples located around Tai Huai Zhen (台怀镇), the town centre of Wu Tai Shan. In Tai Huai Zhen itself, there are over 50 temples. This is also the most crowded area in Wu Tai Shan, where you can find hotels, eateries and all manner of shops.

Wu Ye Temple (五爷庙)

This is the most crowded temple in Wu Tai Shan and is dedicated to the nagas, who are said to be very powerful and who grant the wishes of those who pray there. As Buddhists, we do not pray or make wishes to nagas as they are unenlightened beings; however, we can still visit the temple as tourists.

As the naga king loves watching Chinese opera, this theatre is specially dedicated to the naga king

Guang Ren Temple（广仁寺）

Guang Ren Temple is a Gelug temple built by Emperor Kangxi. It used to be the monk quarters of Lou Hou Temple, housing monks who came from Tibet and Mongolia on pilgrimage before it became a temple in its own right. It is currently managed by Tibetan monks.

The entrance of the temple

Inside the main prayer hall

Xian Tong Temple（显通寺）

This is the biggest temple in Wu Tai Shan and was first built during the Han Dynasty. Xian Tong Temple is one of the important properties protected by the Chinese government for its historical value. It is also one of the oldest Buddhist monasteries in China, built around 70 CE.

The main hall of Xian Tong Temple houses statues of Buddha Shakyamuni, the Medicine Buddha and Maitreya.

The Thousand-arm Manjushri

The Manjushri of Nectar (甘露文殊) statue

The gold copper chapel located at the top of Xian Tong Temple

Manjushri Seated on a Lion resides in this gold copper chapel, surrounded by thousands of miniature Buddha statues mounted on the walls

Xian Tong Temple is situated on 43,700 square metres of land

The holy Kangyur text is kept in this building

Different forms of Manjushri

Ta Yuan Temple（塔院寺）

Ta Yuan Temple is famous for its great white pagoda stupa (also called Buddha Shakyamuni’s Holy Bone Relics Stupa) that was built by King Ashoka.

There is also another holy stupa located in this temple i.e. Manjushri’s Hair Stupa. It is said that Manjushri emanated as a pregnant lady and came to this temple with two small children and a dog to beg for food during the temple’s annual food-giving event. The pregnant lady didn’t have any money so she cut her hair, offered it to the monk in charge, told the monk that she was in a hurry, and to please give her the food before the food-giving event started.

Out of compassion, the monk gave the pregnant lady three portions of food, one for her and two for her children. After they finished the food, the pregnant lady asked for another portion for the dog. Although the monk was reluctant, he gave her the food nonetheless. Then the pregnant lady asked for yet another portion, claiming that her unborn baby needed to eat too!

This time the monk couldn’t stand it anymore, so he shouted at the pregnant lady and said that she was very greedy. He had given her so much food and yet here she was asking for more for the baby who was still in her womb. How could an unborn baby be able to eat the food?

After the monk had finished shouting, the pregnant lady rose into the sky and transformed into Manjushri; the dog transformed into the lion that Manjushri rides on; and the two children turned into the two assistants of Manjushri. Manjushri then asked the monk why he did not see all sentient beings equally, and told him that as long as he did not develop Bodhicitta and equanimity, he would not gain realisations. The monk was very regretful for what he had done. To demonstrate his regret, he built a stupa and put the hair offered by Manjushri inside it. It has been called Manjushri’s Hair Stupa ever since.

The great white stupa

Prayer wheels are installed around the stupa for devotees to circumambulate

A small shrine built around the White Stupa for visitors to make offerings

Manjushri’s Hair Stupa

Luo Hou Temple（啰侯寺）

Luo Hou Temple was built during the Tang Dynasty. According to legend, Luo Hou Temple was built at the spot where Manjushri gave a discourse with a magic lantern. The temple was named after Rahula, Buddha Shakyamuni’s son, which in Chinese is pronounced Luo Hou Luo (罗候罗) or “a place where all living creatures can avoid torment.”

Pu Sa Ding（菩萨顶）

Pu Sa Ding Temple is the largest Tibetan temple in Wu Tai Shan, situated on Lingjiu Peak (or Vulture Peak). Pu Sa Ding used to be the royal temple and the Chinese emperors would stay here when they visited Wu Tai Shan. The previous Panchen Lama has given teachings here as well.

108 steps leading to the entrance of Pu Sa Ding

Breathtaking view of Tai Huai Zhen from Pu Sa Ding

The main prayer hall

Hall dedicated to Lord Tsongkhapa

Day 6: September 17, 2017)

This was the last day of our pilgrimage to Wu Tai Shan. Before we left for Beijing International Airport, we had two more sites to visit. First we visited Fomu Cave (Vajrayogini Cave) then Zhen Hai Temple.

Fomu Cave (Vajrayogini Cave)

The inner cave is a natural limestone cave with a depth of 15 metres, height of 4 metres and width of 5 metres. The inner cave is believed to be the manifestation of Vajrayogini’s womb. There is a larger outer cave that connects to the inner cave.

In the past, visitors could climb in and out of the inner cave, symbolising being reborn and starting anew. It is said that Changkya Rolpai Dorje meditated on Vajrayogini in this very cave and had a vision of the divine lady. It is also said that many high practitioners who came to this cave to meditate had visions as well.

A few months ago, the inner cave was closed until further notice for safety reasons. However, we could still pay homage to Vajrayogini outside the inner cave to receive her blessings.

Note: Changkya Rolpai Dorje is one of the previous incarnations of Kyabje Pabongka Rinpoche.

1,080 steps up to Fomu Cave Temple

Pilgrims can opt to reach the cave via cable car

Before entering Fomu Cave, we gathered to recite the Tea Offering to Vajrayogini

The outer cave leading to the inner cave

Pilgrims can gather in the outer cave to make offerings, recite prayers and meditate

Photo taken from far: the inner cave, which can only fit six people at one time

Zhen Hai Temple

Zhen Hai Temple is a place of worship belonging to the Gelugpa tradition. It houses ancient Indian statues including the male form of Chenrezig. The temple also houses the Changkya Stupa containing Changkya Rolpai Dorje’s relics and two pine trees that were planted by this great lama.

It is very meritorious to be able to come here to circumambulate the stupa of Changkya Rolpai Dorje, who was one of the previous incarnations of Kyabje Pabongka Rinpoche. Of course, all of us made light offerings at the temple too.

This stupa contains the holy relics of Changkya Rolpai Dorje

Pilgrims circumambulating the stupa

A rare statue of the male form of Chenrezig

Before leaving Zhen Hai Temple, we recited the King of Prayers to conclude our Wu Tai Shan pilgrimage. It was a very fruitful trip and we had the opportunity to make many offerings and prayers at each site, and visit many old and holy temples. Rinpoche always advises us that if we like to travel, then travel for spiritual reasons. When we do so, we gain more than just nice memorie; we also collect good karma, we accumulate merit, and we make a stronger connection with the Three Jewels for our future lives.

We recited the King of Prayers before leaving the last temple of the trip, followed by a short Dharma sharing by Pastor Yek Yee in Mandarin and Pastor Han Nee in English

 
For more interesting information:

• All About Manjushri | 关于文殊菩萨
• Dorje Shugden Category
• Dorje Shugden: My side of the story | 多杰雄登：我这方面的说法
• Dorje Shugden Retreat: A powerful practice to fulfill wishes
• Emperor Kangxi / 康熙皇帝
• Excellent Travelogue of holy places in Tibet
• Nepal Pilgrimage full videos
• Why Visit Holy Pilgrimages?
• David’s Pilgrimage to India
• Making Offerings to Shar Gaden Monastery
• Buddha at Mahabodhi Temple, Bodhgaya
• I visited the holy Jokhang Temple, Lhasa 2008
• Pilgrimage to Mount Wutai
• Power Place: Jog Falls
• Holy Place of Kuan Yin
• 74 Grand Statues of the World
• Wonderful Sri Lanka
• Must visit Chengdu (exotic and exciting)
• Wonderful Myanmar
• Must visit Bodhgaya – The Navel of the World
• Wonderful Cambodia

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