Between Heaven and Earth: The Hanging Temple of Heng Mountain
For most of us, it is a daily battle simply to find the time and motivation to meditate and to do our practice. Then, there are individuals like Liao Ran.
Liao Ran was a monk who not only found the time and perseverance to adhere to his monastic vows but also managed to find the opportunity and energy to build a temple. In the unlikely case that this feat does not impress you, the location of the temple he built certainly will – it literally hangs off the side of a mountain.
Liao’s labour of love is quite appropriately known as the Hanging Temple (and less commonly as the Hanging Monastery or Xuankong Si). It has perched on the cliffs of Mount Heng in northeastern China for over 1,500 years. Mount Heng is northernmost of the Five Great Mountains of China, each of which is considered a sacred site of pilgrimage.
The awe-inspiring location of the temple is not its only unique feature. It is just as remarkable because it is the only remaining temple dedicated to all three Chinese traditional religions: Buddhism, Taoism, and Confucianism.
First built in 491 A.D., the Hanging Temple has undergone significant renovations, first during the Ming Dynasty (1368-1644) and more recently in 1900 during the Qing Dynasty (1644-1911).
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But Why Here?
Not much is known about Liao Ran, no doubt as he would have preferred it. What we do know is that he lived during the late Northern Wei Dynasty (386 – 534 A.D.) and began construction on this wondrous edifice all by himself.
It is hard to imagine why someone would choose such an unorthodox and disobliging location, particularly if they planned to work on it solo. At its lowest suspended point, the underside of the Hanging Temple juts out into the air 30 metres (98 feet) above the rocky foothill. Its highest point towers 50 meters (164 feet) in the air.
If Mount Heng’s designation as a great mountain attracted him, why not build it at the summit, like the temples of Mount Fanjing. Again, history is reticent about the man and his motivations.
Some have suggested that the position provided security from inhospitable neighbours. That rationale does hold water – Mount Heng’s location so far north made it the least visited of the Five Great Mountains, and that meant fewer friendly faces. The region fell inside the Northern Wei Dynasty’s sphere of influence but its hold on the remote location was tenuous.
Liao’s decision may also have been influenced by the local climate and weather. The temple’s location in the shadow of the mountain’s peak protects it from sun, rain and snow. In times of flood, an elevated position would allow it to escape the brunt of the deluge.
However, one of the most convincing arguments is that for silence and solitude. A temple and monastery accessible only via a narrow, winding stairway shaped out of the mountainside would have been as unappealing to animals as it would to humans. For a monk looking to strengthen his religious prowess, the resulting isolation and tranquillity would have been ideal.
The Architecture
It is difficult to compare the architecture of the Hanging Temple to other religious buildings simply because there is no other like it in terms of construction.
Exterior
Upon first glance, the temple’s buildings seem to have been partially swallowed by an expanding mountain rather than built onto and into it. Some of the pathways that connect the separate buildings are hewn into the mountain. Others feature the same design as the buildings themselves – parked atop seemingly impossibly-thin wooden poles.
It is composed of three main sections:
North Pavilion
This pavilion is three storeys tall, 4 metres (13 feet) wide and 7 metres (23 feet) in length. Wufo Hall, which is located on the lowest floor is dedicated to the Five Dhyani Buddhas. Above it is Guanyin Hall and on the top storey is Sanjiao Hall. Sanjiao Hall, or the Hall of the Three Religions is widely regarded as the most important room in the Hanging Temple, at least in terms of symbology. It contains large statues of Buddha Shakyamuni, Lao-Tze and Confucius standing together.
South Pavilion
Slightly larger than the North Pavilion, it is also three storeys tall and 4 metres wide but longer at 8 meters (26 feet). The North Pavilion contains Sanguan Hall. It is the biggest hall of the Hanging Temple and is home to a 2-metre tall clay sculpture, the largest in the complex. On the middle storey is Chunyang Palace, which is dedicated to Lü Dongbin, one the Eight Immortals of Taoism. Leiyin Hall, which is dedicated to Buddhist deities is on the top storey.
The Long Bridge
The top storeys of the two pavilions are linked by a 10-metre (30 feet) bridge (a stairway has been cut into the mountainside to link the lowest storeys). A small balcony for worshipping sits above the bridge.
Interior
However, as impressive as the Hanging Temple appears from the outside, the bulk of the builders’ efforts went into the portion of the complex that is ensconced within the rock. 40 halls and pavilions lie inside, covering an area of 125 m2.
The biggest and most prominent halls are the Hall of Three Religions, Guanyin (Avalokiteshvara) Hall, Hall of Shakyamuni, Qielan Hall (Hall of Sangharama), Sanguan Hall (Hall of the Three Officials) and Chunyang Hall.
Given that the Hanging Temple is the only surviving example of the concept of the Three Teachings Harmonious as One, the Hall of Three Religions is perhaps the most important of these chambers. The idea of Three Teachings Harmonious as One, which emphasises the complementary nature and unifying ideas of Buddhism, Taoism and Confucianism, flourished during the Ming and Qing Dynasties.
Accordingly, the hall features sculptures of deities of all three religions. Three large statues take centre stage here: Buddha Shakyamuni in the middle, flanked by Lao-Tze on his left and Confucius on his right.
Spread throughout the other halls are 78 sculptures made from stone, terracotta, copper and iron. They are remarkable for their vivid and detailed depiction of facial features and clothing.
Construction
Despite its precarious location and the logistical challenges construction must have presented, no design feature that is seen in other temples of the period has been spared. The two main buildings sport traditional multiple-roof designs, eaves and balconies with images of auspicious creatures like dragons common to Chinese holy structures.
Today, the part of the temple that extends beyond the face of the cliff is supported by poles made of oak. These poles have been inserted into holes chiselled out of the rock. From a distance, the brown oaken poles meld into the background, making the temple appear to float in the air.
Amazingly, the real support framework for the temple complex is hidden within the mountain and the structure itself. If these external vertical poles were removed, the hanging temple would continue to hang!
While it is impossible to not acknowledge that the architecture breaks the natural rock wall formation, a closer look reveals something quite astounding. The manner in which the roof, walls and other structures sweep around the rock pattern indicate that considerable care (and effort) was taken to minimise any unnecessary destruction.
At points, a roof will simply stop at an outcrop and then continue on the other side, leaving the stone intact. Not only is this beneficial for the structural integrity of the building, but it is also a sign of harmony with nature, a state to which all Buddhists aspire.
Those who are apprehensive of heights will probably not find the Hanging temple as soothing as they would with other temples. However, even others should take particular care when visiting – the traditional Chinese balustrades are considerably lower than the waist height of the average adult.
Visiting the Hanging Temple
It would be an understatement to say that the Hanging Temple is a popular tourist site. On many days, a snaking line forms on the path leading up to the entrance and continues up every stair and through every foyer and every room.
Visitors simply shuffle along the orderly queue, milling about and taking pictures as the line progresses. It is very orderly but be prepared for a jam-packed experience, particularly on weekends and auspicious days.
When to Visit
The peak tourist season begins in March 1 and continues all the way to October 31. The weather fluctuates quite a bit by season and it is better to avoid the peak of summer which falls in the middle of the year.
Admission
The entry charge for the complex is CNY 130 from March to October. The price is reduced marginally to CNY 125 in the off-peak season from November to the end of February. If you wish to enter the gates but not climb up into the temple itself (in case of large crowds – see ‘Opening Hours’ below), gate tickets cost CNY 15 only per person.
There are no concession tickets for children or the elderly.
Mount Heng is one of the Five Great Mountains of China so if you come all the way here, you might also like to explore the mountain itself. Tickets are available separately and cost CNY 55 each. Depending on your fitness and zeal, this activity can take from 3 to 5 hours.
Opening Hours
In the summer season (March to October), the Hanging Temple is open between 08:00 to 18:00. During winter (November to February) season, it is shortened to 08:30 to 17:30. The opening hours vary between summer and winter because of the temperature and the light conditions.
A typical visit will take approximately 2 to 3 hours. Remember to make allowances for the queue, which sometimes takes up to 2 hours itself. Several visitors say that they decided to turn back after seeing the queue, so choose a weekday and avoid religious days or school holidays to maximise your exploration time.
Getting There
The address of the temple is:
Mount Heng,
Hunyuan County,
Datong City,
Shanxi Province, China.
The most convenient way to get there is to come via Datong City, which lies 60 km to the northwest of the mountain. A trip by car or bus typically takes between 60 and 90 minutes.
A regular bus service operates directly between the city and Hunyuan County and you can catch it at Datong Coach Station on Yantong Road. The bus departs every 20 minutes starting at 6:30; the last bus leaves at 17:20 and the bus fare is CNY 10. From the Hunyuan County terminal, you have the option of taking Bus No.8 or a taxi to get to the Hanging Temple.
Alternatively, you can hire a taxi or van from Datong itself. A round trip to Mount Heng and back costs about CNY 200.
Photos from one of my students who went to
the Hanging Temple
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Reading this post again just wondering how this amazing Hanging Temple was built without modern technology. This Hanging Temple, built into a cliff near Mount Heng in Datong City, Shanxi Province, China. Built more than 1500 years ago by a monk named Liao Ran. It has survived since than with many locals and tourist visiting it yearly. It is the only existing unique temple with the combination of three Chinese traditional philosophies of Buddhism, Taoism, and Confucianism. The most outstanding feature of the Hanging Monastery is the side-by-side sculptures of Laozi, Confucius, and Shakyamuni. The temple was one of the five most scared mountains in China considered as a sacred site for pilgrimage. Wish to see for myself this unique temple someday.
Thank you Rinpoche for this sharing.
County, Datong City, Shanxi Province, China
Amazing……the hanging Temple of Heng Mountain been built more than 1,500 years ago. This temple is known not only for its amazing location on a sheer cliff but also because it is the only existing temple with the combination of three Chinese traditional religions of Buddhism, Taoism, and Confucianism. The monastery was built on the cliffs of Mt. Hengshan, one of the five most sacred mountains in China. Wow….it seen the caves and halls are all connected by winding corridors and bridges. Looking scary from those pictures and fantastic architecture when it was built. Could imagine how they managed to build such a place. I would love to visit this temple to see for myself the beauty of it and walking along the narrow steps. A experience of a life time.
Thank you Rinpoche for this sharing.
Wow what an amazing structure of a monastery built into a cliff 1500 years ago near Mount Heng in Datong City, Shanxi province, China. Just wondering how these beautiful monastery was built at that time. It looks like any thing can be possible when we think is impossible. These Hanging Monastery is one of the world’s forgotten wonders. The temple was built by a monk named Liao Ran during the late Northern Wei Dynasty (386-534 AD) and restored in 1900. Incredible…….the temple was constructed by drilling holes into the cliffside into which the poles that hold up the temples are set.
The Hanging Temple is one of the main tourist attractions and historical sites in the Datong area nowadays. Having 3 faiths of Buddhism, Taoism and Confucianism that holds 100,000 relics, 78 statues and many other inscriptions and poems in one.
Thank you Rinpoche for sharing such an interesting article and those beautiful photos.
This Hanging Temple is really breath taking.1st look at it really makes me feel giddy because i’m really afraid of heights. I wonder how they were so capable to build the stairs all the way up along the sides of the mountains. I’m sure they must have taken a lot of risk building them. Really fantastic! And I love the waterfalls! Very beautiful. Thank you Rinpoche for sharing this great Hanging Temple.
The temple is amazing. I have to wonder what prompted the building of such a temple. What purpose does it achieve? How many lives have been lost building that temple? How many accidents have there been due to the precarious nature of the temple?
I can imagine living in such a place. Constantly at risk and yet so beautiful and serene. A delicate balance of nature. Imagine needing to conquer the fear of death in every step you take, to not focus on the fear and danger and face it like a common everyday motion. How liberating that would be. Such freedom to be able to live life like that. Perhaps that is one of the reason for building such a temple.
This Hanging Temple is amazing and i can’t imagine this temple is built from 1,500 years ago and all the structure still maintain well. Must pay a visit in one day , i love that beautiful scenery and fresh air .
INCREDIBLE! Just looking at the photos make me dizzy! I would love to visit but I doubt I will climb the temple as I am acrophobic. Its amazing how people in the olden days build such a beautiful temple hanging on the cliffs. But I am very sure that the place is serene…
What an amazing temple! The architecture is detail and well plan. It takes a lot of effort, determination and sacrifices to build this temple. I just love stairways where there is a river flowing below it. Another magnificent is that the nature of the surrounding is kept and the temples blends so well with the nature. The architect or the builders, have also takes opportunity and the advantages of the beauty of the nature to make this temple so unique. The appreciation and conservation of the nature is taken into consideration.
Thank you Rinpoche and Jamie for sharing beautiful pictures of this wonderful temple. I can’t imagine what triggered the idea of building the temple this way and in such difficult site!?
I wish I have the chance to visit this temple while I could still travel the distant 🙂
In the Shanxi province of China a temple was uniquely built onto a cliff, known as the Golden Dragon Gorge or “Jinlong Guan” in chinese. Situated more than 246 feet above ground, it really depicts the wonderment of China olden days architectural building techniques! Though many people may have some whatexpressed a non-confidence attitude to its Hanging foundation struture, yet this temple had stood its test for 1,500 years steadily and solidly till today. Every nook and corner reflected careful expertised thought and planning, before final execution been finalised. It also displayed a smooth, peaceful and tranquil flow of spirituality and morality of a traditional shaolin stereotyped version of an ancient chinese temple that had silently and harmoniously served the 3 religions of Buddhism, Taosim and confusianism for 1,500 long peaceful years!
Human’s works and nature when in union can be an awesome stunning piece of art.
Liao Ran’s dedication and committment to preserve all the 3 teachings and philosophies of Buddhism, Confucianism and Taoism propelled him to build this temple to uphold the teachings forever. With the determination of one humble monk, so much could be achieved and the legacy stays on for all future generations to pay homage to.
I can’t imagine the number of hours and man power required to construct this temple some 1500 years ago.It definitely looked impossible then to many. But there it stands strong and manificiant now that takes every breath away from pilgrims all over the world.
I would love to visit this holy site one day and sooner. I would do a lot of prayers up there and dedicate to our KWPC project in Malaysia , thanking my Guru who brought me the Dharma and to his long life and to all the Dharma practitioner, may their spiritual journey be smooth and be freed of obstacles.
Thank you Rinpoche and Jamie for sharing all these wonderful and beautiful pictures!!!
Considering all the wonderful and beautiful Buddhist places Rinpoche brings to us in this blog, who wouldn’t want to become a Buddhist! This blog is becoming a Buddhist lonely Planet guide with wisdom thrown in. I definitely would want to go before I am too old to do all the climbing.
Buddha taught that mind is the ultimate creator of all things, including what we refer to as nature. Because of this, we can also destroy nature. Therefore, we have to take responsibility for having the power of creation.If not for the monk’s ideas and wishes the temple complex could not have manifested.I would make offerings of light and make prayers for harmony before Sakyamuni and Kuan Yin and for dharma to flourish in the region. Also pay respect to the sages who had contributed much to Chinese ethical living and rich culture.
The temple’s continued existence is a celebration of goodness and holiness.
OMB, this temple is an amazing architectural piece and the landscape in which it is set in is simply breathtaking. At such a high altitude, no doubt the temple will be exposed to very strong wind and extreme weather conditions and it can survive intact for the past 1,500 years! It reminds me of how much a human mind is capable of if focus and effort is applied correctly. The architectural challenges of today’s modern buildings become pale in comparison, more so when we think of the modern technology available today. Even then, today’s modern buildings are plagued with many defects after construction is completed.
I would definitely love to visit this temple one day if I have the opportunity. I would love to witness, admire and feel for myself the ingenuity of mankind that has ever existed and be awed and blown away by it.
Thank-you for posting this Rinpoche. .what an extraordinary place, looks like something you could imagine as a child. that last picture ~ looks like you could start off on some sort of adventure or journey – or something like that
How protected it must be, to have survived for 1600 years – maybe because of the people who practiced there, the influence of the deities, although it really seems like (the elements themselves) maybe protect the place – that’s just a couple of things that popped into my head. who knows.
“People are more creative than nature.” Do you agree with this?? Answer: I agree.
Liao Ran would have been motivated to want to preserve all the 3 teachings that the temple is dedicated to .. the philosophies that embodies Buddhism, Confucianism and Taoism at their best. He respected the values in these teachings so much that he want to uphold it forever.
By using his creativity and own vision and the help of the Taoist builders, he built this structure that required a lot of time, effort, skill and financial support from many to achieve this amazing temple that still stand after 1,500 years later. He may even have to wrestle with the Emperors and politics at that time just to build on that spot which is scenic and beautiful. The temple faces clouds and mist.
This is one of the spectacular China pilgrimage site that is on my Wish List and would be very interested to go to in the future.
Besides admiring the fantastic view from the highest point at the temple, I would love to spend a few days there doing retreat in the mountain caves beside the river to give thanks to the Three Jewels for the vision of this humble monk who left a legacy for all generations to visit, admire and pay homage to.
Let’s not choose a busy day, though. The pictures looks fantastic, but check out this video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WMFBPaVnwWc
Nice video..think I will blog it..thanks…TR
I’m definitely going. Who’s with me?
Amazingly huge & beautiful
Wow ! How they built this, took how long to build? Wish one day i will visit this wonder place! Just imagine, To climb up to the path with hands cling to the side. Exciting! Besides admire the place, i will pay homage to the buddhas and the masters up there….
This is a historical site, i not really agree on PEOPLE is more creative than NATURE. Nowadays human destroyed nature more than protect nature!
Thank you Rinpoche for sharing this post with us, thank you Jamie for the effort.
Beautiful. I hope to visit some day, and walk up the path that clings to the cliffside. I know I will be hanging on to the handrail with both hands!
Just think, if it is scary walking up the path now, imagine what it must have been like to build it! And all for the love of Dharma and spreading the teachings of Lord Buddha. When we build Kechara World Peace Center, we will need to have the same kind of determination and strength!
Wah, on my Buddha!!! This is so nice… i love this temple so much. It’s so mystery. Wish one day can pay a visit to this place… How nice if we have a retreat centre like this? Hehe.. Thank you Rinpoche for sharing this article.
This is amazing! I am afraid of heights and looking at the pictures already makes me weak in the knees!
Indeed, how in the world did they build it? It’s remarkable! I love how the temple wraps around the mountains like as if it is embracing the mountains.
Whether we look up or down, or sideways, every view is breathtaking and beautiful. A spiritual architectural masterpiece! It seems we have to take a leap of faith just to get to the waterfalls too! Those narrow steps are sure a test of faith!
Thank you, Rinpoche and Jamie for sharing all these beautiful amazing spiritual places. Asia is filled with wonderful surprises!