Best Things to Do in Lhasa

Travel to Lhasa

• How to travel to Lhasa
• When to travel to Lhasa
• How to get to Lhasa

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Travel Tips

• Dealing with altitude in Lhasa
• Where to stay in Lhasa
• Where to eat in Lhasa

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Things to Do (1-5)

1. Jokhang Temple
2. Barkhor Square
3. Potala Palace
4. Tibet Museum
5. Norbulingka Palace

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Things to Do (6-11)

6. Trode Khangsar
7. Sacred Yamdrok Yumtso Lake
8. Chakpori Hill
9. Ramoche Monastery
10. Drak Yerpa Hermitage
11. Nyemo Gyelche Monastery

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Day Trips from Lhasa

1. Drepung Monastery
2. Sera Monastery
3. Gaden Monastery
4. Nechung Monastery

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How to Travel to Lhasa

Tourism is highly restricted in Tibet and independent travel is not allowed, except in Lhasa.

Travelers may explore Lhasa’s markets, squares and old town on their own. It’s an amazing city, you can easily spend a week wandering around. You only need to be accompanied by a tour guide when visiting tourist attractions (any monastery and temple). Taxis are easily available in Lhasa and a one-way journey anyway in the city costs only 10 yuan (US$1.50).

Otherwise, if you plan to venture beyond Lhasa, you must book a Tibet tour to obtain a Tibet Tourism Bureau (TTB) permit; only Chinese, Taiwanese and Hong Kong travelers may enter without a visa.

Besides citizens of Singapore, Brunei and Japan, all visitors require a valid Chinese visa in addition to a Tibet permit. Get your Chinese visa at least a month before your trip, as your tour operator will need it to get the TTB permit.

When to Travel to Lhasa

Lhasa can be visited all year round, but the best time to visit is in spring and summer (from April to October) when the weather is not too cold. This also depends largely on your Tibet itinerary as certain parts of Tibet can only be visited in summer (e.g. Mount Kailash is covered in snow throughout the year except for summer.)

Most Tibetan festivals take place in spring and summer too, including the month-long Saga Dawa Festival (mainly to celebrate the birth of Buddha, enlightenment, and parinirvana), the week-long Shoton festival (Tibetan opera performance and Buddha Thangka unfolding ceremony) and Nagqu horse racing festival.

How to Get to Lhasa

Flights to Tibet are expensive, and many people suffer from altitude sickness when flying into Lhasa, via other cities in China or Kathmandu (the only international transit point) to get to Lhasa regardless of where you’re coming from. Return flights to Lhasa from Singapore are around US$500 and from Beijing for US$600.

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Another way of getting into Tibet is on the Qinghai-Tibet Railway. This is the highest rail travel in the world, with over 960 km (600 mi) at an elevation of over 4,000 m (13,123 ft) and almost half of the tracks built on permafrost. The rail journey starts in Beijing, the Chinese capital, taking 40 hours to reach Lhasa.

But the landscapes only begin to impress from Xining onwards, whizzing past high-altitude lakes, vast plains and mountain passes. Train tickets are not cheap, at around US$280 for a soft sleeper and $200 for a hard sleeper (prices can change depending on season) each way.

Traveling by train is preferable as it helps to acclimatise our body to the high-altitude and we are able to enjoy the different sceneries on the way to Lhasa.

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Dealing with Altitude in Lhasa

The capital city Lhasa itself stands at 3,550 m (11,646 ft) above sea level. At such a dizzying height, it’s easy to suffer from AMS (Acute Mountain Sickness) if you don’t take the time to acclimatise to the conditions upon arrival in Lhasa.

Tibetan people are genetically adapted to living at higher altitudes. They have more red blood cells than most of us and that helps them to live with the limited oxygen at high altitudes.

Most people flying into Lhasa suffer from AMS; symptoms include lightheadedness, nausea, short of breath and headaches. Make sure to get some Diamox (Acetazolamide) before your trip and start the medication at least one day before landing in Lhasa. Give yourself plenty of time to rest and acclimatise in Lhasa before you explore.

Tibetan prayer flags with printed mantras or prayers are strung up to bless the people and environment.

Where to Stay in Lhasa

Accommodation is included in most Tibet tours if you booked the tour before arriving. But if you are exploring Lhasa on your own or arriving a few days before your tour starts, it is possible to book hotels in Lhasa online. Prices are affordable, at $50 one can get a comfortable three-star hotel in the historical centre.  The best area to stay in is the old town where you’ll find plenty of temples, restaurants and narrow alleys.

The shops around Lhasa are built with Tibetan design, in tandem to China’s policy of preserving the traditional culture of Tibetans.

Here are some of the recommended hotels:

St Regis Resort Lhasa is the best place to stay in Lhasa, with its ultra luxurious and spacious rooms for those who want to splurge after roughing out in rural Tibet. It’s a walk away from town so one must get a taxi to go anywhere.

Lhasa Gang-Gyan Hotel is a comfortable 4-star hotel with high standards of accommodation and an excellent location, just a few minutes’ walk from Barkhor Square. The breakfast spread was impressive. However, hotel staff are not well conversed in English.

House of Shambala is a boutique hotel brimming with traditional Tibetan flair. They have a beautiful restaurant that serves delicious food. Rooms are decorated in true authentic Tibetan fashion.

Tashi Choeta Boutique Hotel is a simple three-star hotel that is great for the budget traveler. It is in the historical quarters, with a charming lounge area in its central courtyard. The hotel’s interior is decorated in traditional Tibetan style and the service is excellent.

A comfortable room with twin beds at Tasha Choela Boutique Hotel

Where to Eat in Lhasa

Don’t come to Tibet expecting gourmet meals; traditional Tibetan fare is simple and basic. Tibetans used to subsist on tsampa (barley flour) and butter tea, but now many Chinese dishes have been introduced to their culinary diet. Typical Tibetan dishes include yak momo (steamed dumplings with yak meat), Tibetan noodles in broth, and stir-fried vegetables with rice.

Chinese dishes usually on the menu include chili chicken, cashew chicken, double fried pork meat, and yak meat with vegetables. They’re good and authentic in my opinion but can be oily and spicy for some western tastebuds. Only in Lhasa will you find international restaurants that serve pizzas, as well as, Nepali and Indian thali sets.

A delicious Tibetan dish

Recommended restaurants in Lhasa:

House of Shambala is highly recommended for their delicious food and they have an impressive selection of momos. Their platters of pakora and other Tibetan Nepali snacks are excellent. With thereat atmosphere and good service provided, often diners will return again for an enjoyable meal.

Tibetan Family Kitchen is a cosy home-style diner that makes you feel like you are dining in someone’s home. Make your way there through a narrow alleyway, up the stairs through an apartment building and you’ll find yourself in a local home. You not only get to eat home-cooked Tibetan food but you can also try your hand at cooking them.

Po Ba Tsang Restaurant is a modern restaurant serving Tibetan and Chinese dishes that are huge in portions and great in flavour.

House of Shambala, a cheerful cosy restaurant that serves excellent food

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1. Jokhang Temple

It is recommended to start your trip in Lhasa with a visit to Jokhang Temple. An ancient Tibetan saying goes “No journey to Lhasa is complete without a visit to Jokhang Temple” and for that reason, this is everyone’s first point of call.

Exterior of Jokhang Temple

Jokhang Temple is considered by Tibetans as the most sacred and important temple in Tibet. Dating back to the 7^th century, this is the oldest Buddhist temple in the country. The beautiful ancient temple, painted in deep hues of Red and Gold, is an important pilgrimage site and it is not uncommon to see lines upon lines of pilgrims waiting outside the temple daily, ready to make their special journey.

Around the temple, you’ll find Barkhor street is where crowds of worshipers are either prostrating in prayer, turning their prayer wheels or bowing to Buddha statues.

2. Barkhor Square

Barkhor Square is the main square of Lhasa. The square has been a focus for violent political protests on several occasions, notably in 1998 (when a Dutch tourist was shot in the shoulder) and most recently in 2008.

Barkhor Square

These days, there’s still a presence of riot-squad vehicles surrounding the square, but the atmosphere is a lot more relaxed. There are lots of vendors selling everything from fresh produce to incense. Much of the market remains traditional and authentic, and you can watch as nomads haggle with the sellers to push for the best prices.

Pilgrims prostrating to the external wall of Jokhang Monastery

3. Potala Palace

Next, make a beeline for the world-renowned Potala Palace, former home of the Dalai Lama. This iconic building symbolizes Tibetan Buddhism and its central role in the traditional administration of Tibet. Built in the 7^th century, this was the chief residence of the Dalai Lamas until the 14^th Dalai Lama fled to India during the 1959 Tibetan uprising.

Potala Palace was built in the 7th century and has been the chief residence of the Dalai Lamas until the 14th Dalai Lama, who is currently residing in India.

Today it’s a museum and a World Heritage Site. It’s an impressive complex to visit, with hundreds of rooms, historical artefacts and displays. You’ll have to climb quite a few steps to get up to the palace, but the view from the top is spectacular. The ancient hallways and constant aroma of incense make you feel like you’re stepping back in time.

Entrance to the Potala Palace

4. Tibet Museum

After visiting Lhasa’s most popular sights, head to the Tibet Museum to see interesting exhibits and heavy Communist Party propaganda. Starting with the prehistory of Tibet, the multiple halls cover everything from weapons and musical instruments to folk handicrafts and fine ancient thangkas (Tibetan sacred art). A useful handheld audio self-touring device (10 Yuan) is available if you bring your passport as a deposit.

The halls start logically with prehistory, highlighting the Neolithic sites around Chamdo and rock paintings at Rutok and Nam-tso, mixed in with a few oddities (5000-year-old grain). The third hall features 21 thangkas of Drolma along with a central sand mandala, while the fourth room covers ethnography, with traditional costumes and yak-skin coracle boats.

5. Norbulingka Palace

Norbulingka was a summer palace, as well as, an administrative and religious centre for the successive Dalai Lamas from the 1780s till the 14^th Dalai Lama’s self-exile in 1959. Norbulingka has been listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2011.

The palace is situated on the west side of Lhasa, a short distance to the southwest of Potala Palace. Norbulingka covers an area of around 36 hectares (89 acres) and considered to have the largest man-made garden in Tibet. During the summer and autumn months, the parks in Tibet become hubs of entertainment with dancing, singing, music and festivities.

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6. Trode Khangsar

The Trode Khangsar is an important chapel dedicated to Dorje Shugden in Lhasa, Tibet. It was built by His Holiness the 5^th Dalai Lama towards the end of the 17^th century. Dorje Shugden is an uncommon Dharma protector within Tibetan Buddhism, who is said to protect the Buddhist teachings and Nagarjuna’s Madhyamika (Middle Way) Philosophy as taught by Lama Tsongkhapa specifically. Lama Tsongkhapa was the founder of the great Gelug lineage. Trode Khangsar itself is registered as a national heritage memorial, putting it under the care of the Chinese government at a national level. As recently as 2008, the chapel was being renovated by the Chinese Government. Thus, Trode Khangsar, which is dedicated to Dorje Shugden, continues to be another powerful testament to the high respect His Holiness the 5^th Dalai Lama came to develop for Dorje Shugden.

7. Sacred Yamdrok Yumtso Lake

Yamdrok Yumtso, also known as Yamzho Yumco or ‘Turquoise Lake of the Upper Pasture’, is one of the three largest sacred lakes in Tibet. At 72 km (44.7 mi) long, Yamdrok Yumtso Lake is a freshwater lake, fed by the many streams from the surrounding mountains and as its namesake is deep turquoise in colour.

Local legend has it that the lake is the physical manifestation of the goddess Dorje Geg Kyi Tso. Many pilgrims would circumambulate this lake annually, some circumambulate using prostrations. Yamdrok Yumtso Lake is sacred as the appointed group responsible to search for the next Dalai Lama’s reincarnation will come to her for divination.

Padmasambhava, the second Buddha who in the 8^th century brought Buddhism to Tibet, had been closely linked to the lake, its islands, and the surrounding area. Samding Monastery sits on a peninsula that juts into the lake, is famous for being the only monastery to be headed by a female reincarnate, Samding Dorje Phagmo. This female abbot stays and heads a community of about thirty monks and nuns in Samding Monastery.

The Yamdrok Hydropower Station, the largest in Tibet, was completed and dedicated in 1996 near the small village of Baidi at the lake’s western end.

8. Chakpori Hill

1938 photo of Men-Tsee-Khang on top of Chakpori (English translation is “Iron Hill”), taken from the “Western Gate” or Pargo Kaling

Chakpori seen from Potala (2013)- a large antenna on top, replaced the Tibetan Medical and Astrological College called Men-Tsee-Khang

Standing tall at 3,725 m (12,221 ft) above sea level, the Chakpori Hill, also known as the “Iron Mountain” and the “Hill of Medicine King”, offers a panoramic view of its famous neighbour, the Potala Palace, the ancient city of Lhasa and its surrounding landscapes. Chakpori Hill, believed to be the soul mountain of Vajrapani, is traditionally one of three main hills known as the “Three Protectors of Tibet”. The other two are Pongwari Hill being the soul mountain of Manjushri and Marpori Hill (where Potala stands) that of Chenrezig. Chakpori Hill is a place of every photographer’s dream and there will be a crowd at dawn to capture the beautiful scenes of the first rays of the sun beaming on the Potala Palace. Princess Wencheng, the Chinese wife of King Songtsen Gampo, had prayed on this hill often, facing her imperial home in Chang’an, China.

Chakpori Hills – painted thousand Buddhas rock carvings

Many pictures of Buddhas and Tibetan Buddhist scriptures are engraved on the hill, including a well preserved historical grotto of over a thousand years which has 69 lifelike stone statues engraved into the face of the mountain. Some of the carvings date back to the times of King Songtsen Gampo. Pilgrims will offer and place the mani stones (stones carved with sacred Buddhist mantras) by the hill, to request for blessings from the Buddhas. A place worth visiting is the spring named “Holy Water” that was the favourite of the Dalai Lama due to the pure and sweet fountain from the spring.

Once a temple sat on top of the Chakpori Hill, containing the sapphire blue statue of the Tibetan Medicine King. A manifestation of Buddha Sakyamuni, the Medicine King was said to cure patients of all diseases. It was the temple where all lamas came to study traditional Tibetan medicine during the times of the 5^th Dalai Lama (1642-1682). Late 17^th century, the Tibetan Medical and Astrology Institute (Men-Tsee-Khang), was formally established on Chakpori Hill by Desi Sangye Gyatso. Now a towering radio antenna stands where the Medical and Astrological Institute was.

Pargo Kaling Chorten – the western gate to Lhasa

Noteworthy is the famous Pargo Kaling Chorten that sits on the spur that connects Chagpori to Potala. It serves as the western gate to Lhasa and although demolished in 1967, it had since been rebuilt in 1995.

9. Ramoche Monastery

Ramoche Monastery is the second most important Buddhist monastery in Lhasa after the Jokhang Monastery. Sitting on 4,000 square m (43,055 square ft) of land, Ramoche Monastery is a popular attraction in Lhasa and is one of the key cultural relic protection sites of the Tibet Autonomous Region. As it was built by Han Chinese architects and with Princess Wencheng in charge, the original building complex has a strong 7^th century Tang Dynasty influence. The monastery reflected Princess Wencheng’s thoughts of home when it was built to face east towards China.

Jowo Mikyoe Dorje of Ramoche Monastery (click to enlarge)

In 1986, a major restoration was undertaken and only the Buddha palace on the first floor is in its original state. The three-storey main building has the first floor (with an atrium, a scripture hall, and the Buddha palace and winding corridors), the second floor is mainly residential with a small chapel housing the Buddha of Nagas, and the third floor is the bedroom reserved for His Holiness the Dalai Lama. Noteworthy are the ten pillars of the main building holding some remaining local relics such as the coiling clouds, jewelry, encased lotus flowers and Tibetan characters. One of the most important relics is the life-sized statue of Buddha Shakyamuni (known as Jowo Mikyoe Dorje) at 8-year old, which had been brought into Tibet by the Nepalese Princess Bhrikuti. The 12-year old Buddha Shakyamuni statue, brought in by Princess Wencheng from the capital Chang’an, was originally housed in Ramoche Monastery but is now residing in Jokhang.

Ramoche Monastery is a fine example of Han and Tibetan architecture and its golden peak with the upturned eave of Han style can be seen from all directions in the city of Lhasa. The Ramoche Monastery is renown to be the place for Tibetan monks to study Vajrayana Buddhism.

10. Drak Yerpa Hermitage

Drak Yerpa Hermitage is an important meditation site that is actually a complex of an ancient cave in Taktse County, east of Lhasa. With an elevation of 4,400 m (11,646 ft) to 4,800 m (15,748 ft), slightly higher than that of Lhasa, it helps visitors to acclimatise to the elevation of Lhasa after their visits. Drak Yerpa is especially interesting for meditators as it has a rich significant history of many important Buddhist Masters meditating in the caves. King Songtsen Gampo with his two foreign wives, Nepali princess Bhrikuti and Chinese Princess Wencheng, had meditated at Peu Marsergyi Lhakhang, where they found the self-arising sign of Buddha’s body, speech and mind. They later went to meditate at Chogyel Puk. At Sewalung, treasure finder, Darcharuba found the ritual dagger of Sera Phurzhal, on the many terma objects that Padmasambhava had hidden around Drak Yerpa. Padmasambhava spent seven months in meditation retreat at Dawa Puk and it became well known as one of the three places where he gained spiritual attainments (drub-ne). Lhalung Pelgyi Dorje had stayed in solitary meditation at Yerpa, before and after his assassination of the apostate King Langdarma.

Drak Yerpa came into prominence again during the 11^th century under the Kadampa influence when Lu-me founded 108 temples on the hillside while Marton Chokyi Jungne founded the Jampa Lhakhang. Atisha was there for three years and constructed Kyormo Lhakhang and the Chokhang with the help of his main disciples.

11. Nyemo Gyelche Monastery

Nyemo Gyelche Monastery – Main Entrance

Nyemo Gyelche Monastery is located in Nyalam County and founded by Yonten Gyatso, a descendant of Thonmi Sambhota. As you walk in the very traditional ornate main prayer hall of this Gelug monastery, your eyes will be riveted to its altar where a 1.8 m (6 ft) tall statue of Lama Tsongkapa sits. Lama Tsongkapa is the founder of the Gelugpa lineage.

Lama Tsongkapa statue on the altar of the main prayer hall (click to enlarge)

There is a protector chapel next to the main prayer hall and the main protector that is propitiated is Dorje Shugden. Nyemo Gyelche Monastery has an oracle who takes trance of the protector Dorje Shugden, known for giving powerful blessings and accurate advice. There are currently twenty-two monks at the monastery.

Nyemo Gyelche Monastery’s attractions include an annual performance of the Dorje Shugden Cham dance, which portrays the arising of this great protector of Lama Tsongkapa’s precious teachings, a fulfilment of a promise made many lifetimes before. The monks follow very stringent preparation and practices ahead of this Cham dance portraying holy beings, and it is an absolute spectacle with the costumes and splendid regalia.

Dorje Shugden in the protector chapel (click to enlarge)

Kache Marpo, a minister of Dorje Shugden (click to enlarge)

Cham Dance in Nyemo Gyelche Monastery telling the story of Dorje Shugden arising as a protector

Nyemo Gyelche Monastery and its monks were also featured in a documentary report about the tradition of making 3D wood mandalas, which represent the celestial abode of a deity. Although Nyemo Gyelche Monastery may not be featured in commercial tours, it is recommended to visit this monastery for its authentic traditional practices and beautiful statues, as well as its impressive ornate Tibetan interiors.

Monks of Nyemo Gyelche Monastery constructing a 3D mandala

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1. Drepung Monastery

The front of Drepung Monastery

If you have over three days, it is recommended to head out to the outskirts of Lhasa to explore three of the most important monasteries in Tibet. Drepung Monastery is the largest of all Tibetan monasteries and is perched on the Gambo Utse mountain. Note that there are lots of slopes and stairs (which can get tiresome at such high altitudes), but it’s worthwhile to visit just to witness monks chanting their daily prayers and soak in the spiritual atmosphere of the monastery.

A grand view of the mountains from the top of Drepung Monastery

2. Sera Monastery

In Tibetan monasteries, monks often carry out debates for better understanding of Buddhist philosophies; but these debates are usually not opened to the public, except at Sera Monastery. Sera is another one of the three great Gelugpa monasteries of Tibet and was founded in 1419.

Exterior of Sera Monastery

The highlight of anyone’s visit here is the monk’s debate at around 3-5pm every day. It was such an eye-opening experience seeing the monks in action. The debates were punctuated with vigorous gestures which made the whole ambience lively. They made dramatic gestures such as striking the right palm on the left palm followed with the right hand in the sliding motion towards the opponent, accompanied with verbal questions to be answered.

The courtyard of Sera Monastery with monks in a debate

3. Gaden Monastery

About 50 km (31 mi) east of Lhasa, Gaden Monastery was the first Gelugpa monastery. It was founded in 1417 CE by Tsongkhapa. Two koras (pilgrim circuits) offer astounding views over the braided Kyi-chu Valley and you’ll probably meet more pilgrims here than anywhere else. Some 400 monks now study in Gaden, and extensive reconstruction has been underway for some time now, alongside a strong police presence.

Painted murals on rocks near Gaden Monastery

4. Nechung Monastery

This monastery, 10 minutes’ walk downhill from Drepung Monastery, is worth a visit for its historical role as the seat of the Tibetan State Oracle until 1959. The Nechung oracle was the protector of the Buddhist state, and the Dalai Lamas would make no important decision without first consulting him. Nechung Monastery is an eerie place associated with possession, exorcism and other pre-Buddhist rites. The blood-red doors at the entrance are painted with flayed human skins, and scenes of torture line the top of the outer courtyard.

Nechung Monastery is easily reached on foot after visiting Drepung, on the way to the main road. A path leads past mani stone-carvers to the monastery (10 minutes). En route, look for the metal icon moulds dipped in streams to act like underwater prayer flags, releasing fleeting fluid icons.

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